The Pink and the Blue

Rangeela Rajasthan is a land where even the sun shines in a colour not seen and felt elsewhere. Riots of colour everywhere, blinding and enriching you all at the same time. Without much ado let me update you about my latest  sojourn in this beautiful land.
A desperate need to get away from the city and experience something new in a limited time frame pushed me into packing Jaipur and Jodhpur in a mere two day trip. A gross injustice but we all operate with logistical constrains and well as they say short and sweet.
Started early on a Sunday morning by the Ajmer Shatabdi. A comfortable air conditioned chair car that sleepily leads you to Jaipur. From the New Delhi railway station departing at 6 am this train lands you in Jaipur at around 10 30 am a convenient time for half a day sight seeing trips that can help you cover majority of the tourist spots. At the Jaipur railway station on platform number one there is a tourist information centre with a helpful set of staff that are more than happy to accommodate your needs. We had our train to Jodhpur booked for later in the night and hence had the full day to tour the city. We were advised to take the half day tour conducted at 11am, 1:30pm and 4: 30pm. Priced at Rs 200 per person the tours covering around 6-8 of the most important tourist spots seemed like a good deal and we agreed for the 11 am one but were informed of the particular tour being non-operational that day. We were then offered the option of taking a taxi that would show us almost the same places and take us to Chokhi Dhani and back, a very important point for our day. For a cost of Rs 1400  the cab was the pricier option. The last time we were in Jaipur we covered the same stretch in an auto that charged us about Rs 500 for the same deal but the tourist information centre guys advised  us against it saying that the way back from Chokhi Dhani late at night was not a safe bet as regards autoz and a cab is the better option. Frankly I think this logic does not hold much water. We took an auto the last time and we were just fine. The non a/c cab guy had some tie up with the gentleman and was summoned with no official channel in sight or rather existence. So if you don't get the stipulated half day bus tours you can find yourself an auto for the same, just bargain hard.
Our first stop was the Jal Mahal, we were informed that work is under-way there for a seven star hotel and hence one can just look at it from afar and not manage a boat ride to it. Second visit and still all I managed was duur ki nazar but nonetheless the day ahead was long and packed with other super destinations and we moved ahead. Next in line was the Amer Fort. Amer Fort does look too huge and too far away and too impenetrable and yes not to forget the soaring temperature of Jaipur. So much so that we has given it a miss the last time and had just been content with pics clicked with the Amer fort in the background. This time round we decided not be be defeated by the sheer enormity of it and took it head on. One can use the elephant or the jeep ride to get on top of the fort but taking all the 350 steps plus on foot has its own thrill. After a lot of puffing and panting and phenomenons that felt like silent attacks (hope not) we were on top of the Amer Fort. The view from there so totally makes up for all the calories burnt, really. Here is a sneek peak.

Looking below at the pink city from the Amer Fort

Done with Amer we moved next to Kanak Gardens for lunch. Balaji resturant there serves all you can eat Punjabi and Rajasthani thalis at Rs 150 each. Food is spicy and dipped in the earthy flavous you have come sniffing after. A no frills attached genuine foody place.

Stuffed to the brim we went next to the City Palace and the Jantar Mantar. Hign on the food we missed out on taking the guide and walked around the museum and the palace like wonder struck children. Being surprised at stuff before us and making whatever sense we could by reading legends strewn around and putting our two plus twos together. Jantar Mantar was a similar story and maths, science and me have never been good to each other and on a holiday we just ignore each others existence. So well, Jantar Mantar was simply Greek and Hebrew. But ya I regret, genuinely not getting myself a guide and the next I am there I am gonna get myself one and decode this mystery.

An amused onlooker and a charmed snake outside the City Palace

A quick stop at an Government emporium made me richer by a beautiful bandhni mauve and yellow duppata. For all you shoppers. Sunday is just NOT the day to be in Jaipur as that is when the markets take their weekly off and you shall be left to the mercy of only the emporiums operating that day.
Next stop the pristine Birla Mandir and we were good to head to Chokhi Dhani, the literally the quintessential village, a must must must visit when in Jaipur. We spend a good 4-5 hours in Chokhi Dhani and weren't still satisfied. By 6pm activities in Chokhi Dhani begin in full swing and there is just so so so so much to see, do, experience. A special mention here for their in house magician, have seen him thrice in action and every time he amazes me. Awesome with his tricks he is also a great entertainer and has his audience spell bound and enthralled. Don't miss his act!

The magician up to his tricks in Chokhi Dhani

After having everything on offer and as happy as Alice stuck in a loop of wonderlands we sat down to the sumptuous dinner. A dinner like none other where food is lovingly offloaded into your plate in spite of you almost dying of being over fed. With khao khao seth and lo lo sethani by the time the hosts there are done with you, you need a few minutes to move out of your chair and around. Pure delight nonetheless.
Drove back to the station and waited for our train. Huge word of caution here, we were booked on the Delhi Jaisalmer Express that departs from Jaipur at around 12 and reaches Jodhpur at 6 30am. This was the only unconfirmed ticket in our kitty and cost us oh-so-dearly. The charts din't mention us and when on the train we received the rude revelation that a ticket booked online can unceremoniously be dropped and the tickets booked after that but at the ticket window can be confirmed and accommodated (really how, why? more on this later). So even after much cajoling the TT just nodded his head and said a sorry and asked us to take the next train the, Howrah mail. Dejected we got down and after some running around got ourselves general tickets for Howrah Express. This train leaves at around 1 30am and hence does not have many takers. This ensures seat availability and the ones who want to travel Jaipur to Jodhpur at night are better off taking this train and it is advisable not to get on the Delhi Jaisalmer Express without a confirmed ticket with the understanding that the TT would manage something with a little chai paani.
Howrah express salvaged the situation for us and we reached Jodhpur without disturbing out plans one bit. In fact at Jodhpur we saw Delhi Jaisalmer Express at the station so there is not much time difference between the two and one is better off taking the former. At sevenish when we walked into Jodhpur and it was love at first sight, again. It is a sweet little dreamy town. A tier two city with a whole lot of character and soul. Very distinctly Jodhpur but so much like many other tier two cities you would have seen. You would understand what I mean if you have stayed, lived and loved a small town.
Within five kms from the station is the Makrana Mohalla a place full of quaint little guest houses and home stays sure to enrich your stay and experience there. Relying on Lonely planet and trip advisor reviews we headed straight to Ganpati Guest House and it lived up to every bit spoken and written about it. Rooms here are available in the range for Rs 300-1000 and for Rs 700 we got a jewel of a room. Large, airy, safe and with a great view and a bath tub, yes yes, its true. The area has a whole lot of guest houses all with their rooftop restaurants where your order is  freshly prepared to your taste and though it might take a little time is great for tastebuds, home cooked and really economical.

View from the roof top restaurant at Ganpati Guest House. The clock tower and the Markana Mohalla seen here.

Just like accommodation transport too comes cheap here. After a tad bit of haggling we got ourselves an auto that would show us around all the major tourist spots. First of all we went to the Umaid Bhawan Palace. The last palace to have been constructed in India it is a marvel. Constructed during a famine to provide people with employment 90% of it has been converted into a heritage hotel. The remaining 10% has a museum and a private property where the King and his family reside. The museum and the vintage cars can be seen for a nomial fee. The hotel needs a cover charge to be paid and the private property is well, private. Very well maintained and a delightful place to visit.

The Umaid Palace

Next we went to the Jaswant Thada, a pristine memorial built in the honour of the kings of Mandore.
And now comes the cheery on the cake, the icing on it or rather the whole of it. The Mehrangarh Fort. I have so so so much to say about this place that it could take up a full blog and still spill over. Built over 450 years and by scores of kings of the same lineage the Fort packs in so so much of history that you can be blown over by the sheer enormity of it. It is simply not possible that you would not have come across stories of it in text books, folk lore, cinema etc. The fort still held by its ruling dynasty has scores of tales and artefacts on display. One of the very few princely properties still with its original owners it has scores of turbaned employees that welcome and give you a feel of rubbing shoulders with the royalty. A must visit it shows the blue city in all its splendour from its highest point. An warfare architectural marvel its steeped in history with Sati hand impressions at the Fort gates and the tale on the man buried alive somewhere in the walls of the Fort as a good luck charm. Two of the stories I have not been able to shake away still.

The Mehrangarh Fort

Jodhpur has a very laid back and relaxed feel to it. It is touristy but unlike Jaipur you won't get lost in its enormity and sea of humanity. The sight seeing bit can be comfortably done with in two days max with all the natural and man made sights and the desert safari etc but go there with a few more days to spare. To savour the feel of a land where past lives alongside the present, coexisting beautifully. So rich in its history and folklore it will make you feel like a quintessential prince or princess even when on a budget holiday. Bon voyage, the edge of the Thar desert awaits you.

Blue city from top of the Mehrangarh Fort

For the return journey the Mewar express starts at 7pm and reaches Old Delhi at 6 30 in the morning. A perfect weekend getaway, isn't it?                

                  
        
             

Uuuh tea?

Actually I want to just talk about the woodfire pizza but then just talking about that won't make sense and I will have to talk about Ooty. So here is the blog dedicated to Ootacamund or just simply Ooty. For the Ugadi break 2008 a gang of girls ventured to the honeymooners paradise and tea drinkers delight Ooty. Packed into an innova we started late at night from Bangalore and a six hour drive and many elephants sightings later we reached Ooty in the wee hours of the morning. Ooty was most certainly on the agenda but the drive through national parks allowed us glimpses of uninhibited animals relaxing in their terrain while vehicles zipped past them.
The sun was yet to come out and the temperatures made us giggly and happy even when we were coming from the erstwhile a/c city of India.
   

Our lovely cottages

Darkness did not allow us to fully appreciate the beauty of the place we were in for the next two days. But we promptly made up for the the moment the sun shone through.

Tea gardens

Lush greenery till wherever your eyes lead you. Step cut mountains that give a layered view of the world packing as much punch as possible. No wonder it has been such a huge attraction for so long. Day one we set out to see as much as we could and covered all touristy places possible. Dolphin's nose, Sleeping lady, the chai bagans, botanical gardens, lamb's view, the train ride from ooty to conoor and the dodabetta peaks. The weather was so so nice and the roads going up and down and up and down with greenery around us forced us into breaking into an impromptu sing song session. All romantic numbers tumbled out to our drivers discomfort as we blared loud enough to get arrested. Many songs were sung in a chorus but I distinctly remember singing pehle nasha with my hands stretched outside the window to the maximum and waving in true blue bollywood ishtyle. If songs are meant to remind you of special people and special places. My pehla nasha connection will always be Ooty.

  Dolphins nose did live up to its name but the sleeping lady was almost a enigma to all five of us ladies coz we  just didn't get the angle at which she was sleeping. Botanical gardens were good for people who wanted to run around and play or get clicked with the many blossoms in full colourfull bloom.  Dodabetta, meaning big mountain in the local language was a great find and gave a breathtaking panoramic view.

The only let down was the Toy train from ooty to Cunnur and back again. Tickets need to be taken right from the window and only when the counter opens and not at any time you fancy. The coaches are too few and tourists too many. Jostling for space and seats will remind you of the city life you have tried to escape briefly and amidst all this if you do manage a seat providing a view outside, believe me it would be nothing to die for.
I even relish the sights and sounds outside the bus I take everyday in Delhi so when I fell asleep, yes snoozed off on the train, I can vouch that it ain't worth the brouhaha. What did I see if I was snoozing, you would complain, well I saw the pictures my friends clicked and even they failed to make me happy. A drive by your car to just reach Ooty or commute within it is good enough.

The day dedicated to sight seeing hence came to an end with a trip to the main Ooty marketplace where one can buy woollens, touristy knick knacks, chocolates, tea  and handicrafts among other things. We promptly shopped and settled into Nahar's sidewalk, a brightly neon lit joint that looked warm and inviting and a perfect amalgamation of big city treats and small city charms. We entered and never wanted to leave. Here is where I had the best pizzaz I have had till date and only place we returned to haunt thrice in our two day visit.

The woodfire pizza

  I don't know if this picture gets you tempted but being a foodie who almost is alive for the love of food and the existence of it I can tell you it is one of a kind and the very best. Well with gastronomical delights the day came to an end and we huddled in our warm fire lit cottage beneath thick weigh you down quilts discussing the pleasures of life both big and small. Make sure you stay a place that boats of a fireplace, it will instantly double your satisfaction level from Ooty.

Ooty lake

Home made chocolates galore

For day two it was only Ooty lake on our itinerary and in spite of a short breakfast and long boat ride we managed to finish it in a few hours. If you not a honeymoon couple either in love or trying to fall in love you have potent chances of getting bored post one and a half days in Ooty once the sight seeing is done with. If you are the patient type soaking in the general feel of the place, good for you else you will need to start discovering things to do. And thank God we did, because while driving up and down Ooty and driving our driver crazy we found lo and behold the bee museum!

Bee museum

 It felt almost like a school science trip where we were told of ways to honey extraction, precautions, and uses. Given a tour of the stages and travails and involved and also shown a whole array of organic bee products at throwaway prices. The soaps, creams, balms, honey, handicrafts all were of the best quality and have stood the test of time.

It is obviously a great place for honeymooners but not bad for others as well if you want to soak up the greenery and give the lungs and eyes something they will relish for a long time to come. Being at a distance of just about 5 hours from Bangalore it most certainly one of the best weekend getaways down south!                    

Jaipur now and Jaipur then

This blog is going be like one of those films that keeps going back and forth. Now in the present, the next moment in the past and at times also in the future. Thankfully it is just going to be about the Jaipur I saw some three odd yeas ago and the Jaipur I witnessed over the past weekend.

Jaipur, might be widely known and called the pink city but pink mind you is just one of the many psychedelic colous that make up this super vibrant city. Most simply put a blast of way too many colous, fighting one another for supremacy and ultimately melting into one and presenting a vibgyor feast to the eye.

We spent hardly a few hours in the city between our transit to Delhi from Ranthambore and in that little time the amount of bright colous I saw is going to keep me overwhelmed till until Diwali comes to and end at least. Having alighted at the station we walked down to the bus stop to enquire about the status of Delhi bound buses. Post that the only justified thing to do in the little time we had was to eat and shop.

Having sampled golgappas just outside the station we were horribly hooked and looked forward to sampling many more. We riksha-ed down to Johri bazarr full of fine splendour and bright lights. Shops after shops of bright coloured saris, lehengas, dupattas and dress materials beckoned us on but we gave it a miss as it was a wildlife trip and we meant to keep it that way. From the Babu market corner we bid adieu to our Ricksha uncle and walked down. A total shopping sabbatical was simply impossible to I bought my self some fabulous bangles at throwaway prices. A small stall with a happy to help seller boasted of designers you would just not want to leave without. I bought three types and can't wait to flaunt them.

A walk to the ATM, two golgappa samplings and a little more shopping later we decided we had had enough and should be getting back to where we belong. After a quick and almost good dinner at a highly recommended place in Johri Bazar called LMB we hurried back to the bus stop and boarded our snail mail to to the capital.

A word of caution here, if you not really the back breakingly adventurous kind, have loads of money and are poor by tourist standards you should take a volvo to Delhi.  We being sufficiently adventurous and without impossible time constraints tried to go economical and daring and almost broke our backs. No, seriously it is not that bad provided you don't get stuck right in between of a zillion giant goods trucks going god knows where at snails pace.

The last time round I was in Jaipur it was a different story all together. We were and behaved touristy all the time and went about sightseeing and shopping at must-be places across the city. Hawa Mahal, Chokhi Dhani Jal Mahal etc etc were places we saw among scores of others. What we missed entirely back then was the newer part of the city. Taking the liberty to believe that the flamboyance existed even then, this time round when I witnessed the huge malls and choicely scattered brand outlets from my bus making its way to Delhi I was pleasantly surprised.        

So the old city nestling shops, houses markets and what not in its old maharaja style buildings has a ultra modern side as well. The traditional pink sity seems as though would die if torn away from whatever remanents of yesterday it is clutching and the new can give cities like Bangalore etc a run for their mall money any day. All that I saw, though only from the outside, looked swanky, up to date and worth giving a shot. So now other than repeating things and places I liked in Jaipur and indulging in the ones I missed I also have 'newer' things on the agenda the next time I go there.  
                  

Tiger trail, yet again

In the pursuit to catch the tiger on the whole and not just by the tail I ventured to Ranthambore this October. Having been a part of quite a few Tiger trails in the past where the only solace were ''fresh'' pug marks, I had quite some high hopes from this National Sanctuary. Famed for a 35 plus big cat population it guarantees tiger sightings. With the highest of hopes we packed ourselves into a late night train and headed towards Sawai Madhopur. The Dehradun Express, the only late night option from Delhi started late and almost gave us a heart attack of missing the safari. The TT told us of the train being on time and reaching at 6 a.m. a full forty minutes later than the time promised on IRCTC. When I tried protesting he just laughed indulgently and went ahead with his business. With our fingers crossed we caught some sleep and waited for the next morning. Sawai Madhopur is as sleepy little town that you will miss if you don't keep your eyes open. At 5:15a.m. sharp, 5 minutes before scheduled time the train pulled into the discreet station that we were almost going to miss if it had not been for inquisitiveness.

Too happy for having made it at the promised time we rushed out to find a town barely awake. The faces of the auto walas lined outside the station lit up as soon as we demanded being taken to the Forest Booking Office. This meant tourists which translates into extra moolah across the country. The office situated 3km away was full of activity at that hour. Quite a few people with pre-bookings and without lined the counters securing seats. We too collected ours and sat down for an early morning cup of tea. Here I must talk about the Ranthambore safari site and the smooth as butter functioning of it. Its easy to use, uncluttered and best of the very best, I got an instant reply from their customer support within 24 hours, something unheard of in most of the Government run things I know of.  

We had been assigned our canter and we promptly hopped in, chose front (and the best) seats and waited for the odyssey to begin. Canters are for the unprivileged lots who don't get jeeps and are supposed to be shared by 16 people. Jeeps are more difficult to get for various reasons. Eitherways with an overenthusiastic driver and a  somewhat subdued guide we started off at 6:15a.m. One of the first vehicles to leave.          

Canters go about collecting their populace from various hotels and resorts before finally venturing into the park. Now this is an issue. If the resorts are far too many and far flung you had it. We had the additional burden of waiting at a resort for a full 20 minutes as the couple just didn't make it before that. Amidst threats of leaving we waited for what seemed like an eternity for a honeymoon couple while scores of other vehicles passed by. Now a word of caution here. I hate to generalise but I think honeymoon couples trying to make an extended first impression should give such activities a miss. The man and his lady were dressed and turned out to perfection with matching jewellery, accessories and make-up. A slight scuffle later we proceeded to three different places to pick more of our canter mates. Finally at about 7:05a.m. we were able to enter the park. Remember to carry your battery, hats, caps etc etc because fleecing tourists is not unknown there. Having paid Rs 150/- for two duracell pencil batteries I prayed one last time for guaranteed tiger sighting and pictures to write about.    

Freshly reopened after the monsoon break the park was lush with greenery. As we moved and lunged forward on the jungle terrain the driver and guide kept us entertained with tales of tigers they had seen and they would show us. The focus in Ranthambore is on Tiger sighting and any other animal is not really taken seriously. The tigers food albeit deer, antelopes, cheetal, sambhar, lemurs and monkeys are scoffed of and the camera flashing tourist is promised ''later'', once the main kill is done with.

Quite early on we heard a ''call'' very nearby to us and were ordered to a hushed silence. We intensely waited for a glimpse of the the big cat. A few more similar quick shrill calls confirmed the tigers presence and made our guides eyes shine. Pin drop silence with only the jungle sounds around. The wind, the animal sounds and silence. It is then that I realised silence is also at times discomforting. After about five minutes or so the silence seemed to be piercing my ears and it felt unbalancing. Thankfully the guide gave up and we proceeded. Cursing the thick foliage for proving cover the driver confided that our zone, zone number 5 has two tigers T -17 and T - 19. So even if this one would play spoilsport we had another one for company.

Further on scores of other animals were simply ignored while we proceeded to locate the other tiger. On our way forth we encountered a majority of the vehicles coming back beaming with people who had managed the feat. Each one gave us "the" directions and it got on our drivers nerves within no time. The location where the tiger was lazing was a good ten minutes away and the driver drove, I am sure, ignoring the jungle speed limits.

As luck would have it the tiger after giving darshan to nine out of ten vehicles that entered zone five decided he had too much attention for the day and retired into the dense vegetation. We went forth we went back, we took turns that were not allowed. We almost drove down the moat to see if the magnificent one was somewhere below but he had conveniently shut shop.

Obscenely dejectedly we started on our way back. The driver, full of tiger stories now fell silent and looked restless. Still not wanting to give up he tried some more spots and made us wait with the same pin-drop silence. But the sighting was not meant to be.

The park adheres to sharp timings regarding entry and exit and so we started on our way back. The mood was obviously different. Children sat silently and the elders too were not too keen, everyone tried to squeeze in whatever little of the last jungle air they could in their lungs before we zoomed out. Almost late we pushed out just as the guard was locking the gate. On being told that we missed the tiger he shook his head in disapproval and informed us about our lone misfortune.

In Ranthambore tiger sightings possibilities are very strong owing to their sheer number and that is why a group that comes back empty handed is horribly sympathised with. Rich by the jungle sojourn and poorer by the tiger sighting standards we were given a ride  to the main city by our friendly driver who promised to show me the tiger on my next visit.

The market at just walking distance from the railway station boasts of some fine and economical eating places that boast of hot parathas and almost everything that can be included in an Indian brunch. Two parathas down we proceeded back to station with almost three hours to kill. There is just one train from Sawai Madhopur to Delhi in noontime and quite obviously we did not get tickets in the short notice we tried to achieve it. Having planned to route our journey through Jaipur we waited for nearly three hours over countless cups of chai, lassi, a little bit of snoozing, a lot of walking, some magazines, few sutta breaks etc. The city I am sure does boast of other tourist loactions, some talabs etc that we had googled but our luck in the tiger department made us sceptical of the city's step motherly treatment to us. We ventured just outside the station and what we saw showed a sleepy little town almost oblivious to the hundreds of people trickling in and out daily to meet their jungle friends.

The Ranthambore Express pulled in just in time and we entered an a/c coach packed with noisy Indians and noisier foreigners. We gave a royal ignore to all the excitement and noise and snoozed off dreaming of the elusive tiger we would meet, most certainly. Albeit some other place, some other time.

From Delhi Ranthambore is certainly a destination that can be covered in one day, provided you are restricting yourself to just one safari ride. Quite a few trains run between the two cities and if booked in time one can enjoy quite a comfortable and rejuvenating weekend ride in wild.                  

                                 

For beginners

Ahoy mate!

For beginners this blog has been loooooong due. So long that I don't even remember what was the first post meant to enjoy the pride of place here. So cutting the long story short and keeping the frills away this is one place I am going to document my travels, both accomplished and targeted, with of course an emphasis on the former. Pictures, anecdotes, tips and what I get to take home from the place are all that are to be found here. Hop on and enjoy the ride! Bon voyage!!